HARDEST CLIMBING MOVES, updated 2013-02-08

In Hardest Climbing Moves by Udo Neumann

THE ORIGINAL LIST OF THE THE HARDEST CLIMBING MOVES (established 1998)

1. Routes, rated 9a and harder or being opened by a climber who doesn’t grade his/her routes, but thought this is hard…

NAME: LOCATION: FIRST CLIMBED BY: REPEATED? CONFIRMED? DATE:

LA DURA DURA

SPAIN

ADAM ONDRA

0 2013

STOKING THE FIRE

SPAIN

CHRIS SHARMA

0 2013

REHABILITATION

AUSTRIA

KLEM LOSKOT

0 2012

BALKONPROJEKT

AUSTRIA

KLEM LOSKOT

MARKUS EDER 2012

IRON DOME

GERMANY

CHRISTIAN BINDHAMMER

0 2012

LA TIERRA NEGRA

SPAIN

CHRIS SHARMA

0 2012

CHANGE

NORWAY

ADAM ONDRA

0 2012

CELEDON

SPAIN

IKER POU

0 2012

MOONSHINE

USA

DAVE GRAHAM

0 2012

BUNDA DE FORA

ITALY

JOE KINDER

0 2012

PALESTINA

SPAIN

LUIS FÉLIX

0 2012

CLIMB FOR LIFE

ITALY

ADAM ONDRA

0 2012

REDPOINT MEAL

CHINA

QINGHUA WANG

WEICHENG XIE  8c+ 2012

THOR’s HAMMER

NORWAY ADAM ONDRA 0 2012

TINIPI

BORNEO (!) DANIEL WOODS 0 2012

CATXASA ext.

SPAIN RAMON 0 2012

KIF KIF DEMAIN

SPAIN MANU LOPEZ 0 201

MISSION IMPOSSIBLE

USA DANIEL WOODS JONATHAN SIEGRIST  8c+ 2012

MOURNING GLORY

USA DANIEL WOODS 0 2012

LE REVE

USA JONATHAN SIGRIST 0 2012

FABELA PA LA ENMIENDA

SPAIN TOM BOLGER 0 2012
NIT DE BRUIXES SPAIN IKER POU 0 2012
BLACK BLOCK SPAIN LUIS FÉLIX 0 2011
SOUTHERN SMOKE DIRECT USA ADAM TAYLOR 0 2011
SPEED ext. CH CEDRIC LACHAT 0 2011
COUP DE BAMBOU CHINA GABRI MORONI 0 2011
PERLORODKA CZECH REP. ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
THE NORDIC FLOWER NORWAY JORG VERHOEVEN 2  8c+ 2011
LA RAMIROLE FRANCE SEBASTIAN BOUIN 0 2011
BAD GIRLS CLUB USA JONATHAN SIGRIST 2 2011
DUELE LA REALIDAD SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2011
SOUTHERN SMOKE DIRECT USA ADAM TAYLOR numerous

numerous, A.Ondra flash 2012

2011
MONSTER MAZE GERMANY CHRISTIAN BINDHAMMER 0 2011
THE ELDER STATESMAN GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 2  9a 2011
LA MOUSTACHE QUI FÂCHE FRANCE ENZO ODDO 0 2011
LE COMPLEXE DU PLAYBOY FRANCE GEROME POUVREAU SEB BOUIN  9a/+ 2011
FIGHT OR FLIGHT SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2011
LA PLANTA DE SHIVA SPAIN ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
FIRST ROUND FIRST MINUTE SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2011
LA CAPELLE SPAIN ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
OBRINT EL SISTEMA SPAIN ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
DNT FRANCE RÉMY BERGASSE 0 2011
CIUDAD DE DIOS SPAIN TOM BOLGER 0 2011
CHAXI RAXI SPAIN ADAM ONDRA 0 2010
CATXASA SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2010
SPICEY DUMPLING CHINA ETHAN PRINGLE 0 2010
POWER INVERTER SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2010
PYRRUS FRANCE PIERRE BOLLINGER 0 2010
PURE IMAGINATION USA JONATHAN SIEGRIST numerous, a.o. Sasha DiGiulian 8c+ 2010
DUELE DE LA REALIDAD EXTENSION SPAIN RÁMÓN JULIÁN DANI ANDRADA 9a 2010
ECHOLOKACE CZ ADAM ONDRA 0 2010
AUBADE directe FRANCE GEROME POUVREAU ENZO ODDO 9a+ 2010
L’étrange ivresse des lenteurs FRANCE ADAM ONDRA 0 2010
CADRE nouvelle version FRANCE ADAM ONDRA 2 9a 2010
THE GOLDEN TICKET USA ADAM TAYLOR numerous 8c+/9a 2010
CABANE AU CANADA CH PIRMIN BERTLE 0 2010
SHORTCUT FRANCE MATHIEU BOUYOUD 0 2010
HUNGER UK MALCOM SMITH 0 2010
SAMFAINA SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA RAMONET 9a 2010
MADE IN POLAND POLAND LUKASZ DUDEK 0 2010
FORCE DE RAPPORT CH PIRMIN BERTLE 0 2010
ERA BELLA SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA numerous 9a 2010
GOLDRAKE ITALY ADAM ONDRA 0 2010
PPP FRANCE ADAM ONDRA 3 (Charlotte Durif, 2011) 9a 2010
Tanec kuøátek CZ ADAM ONDRA 0 2010
JUNGLE SPEED SPAIN DANIEL JUNG ALEXANDER GERZHA 9a 2010
FIRST LEY SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2010
DiRECT FABELITA SPAIN TOM BOLGER 0 2010
INGA FRANCE DAI KOYAMADA DANIEL JUNG 9a 2009
A PRESENT FOR THE FUTURE ITALY ADAM ONDRA 0 2009
NEANDERTAL SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2009
AMAZONIE CH FRANCOIS NICOLE 0 2009
LA GUERRE DE NERFS FRANCE PIERRE SOULÉ Gérôme Pouvreau 9a 2009
DER LANGE ATEM AUSTRIA ARTHUR KUBISTA 0 2009
XAXID HOSTEL SLOVENIA TOMAS MRAZEK ADAM ONDRA 9a 2009
ANALóGICA SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA TOMAS MRAZEK 2009
MARINA SUPERSTAR ITALY ADAM ONDRA 0 2009
WELCOME TO THE CLUB ITALY LUCA ZARDINI 0 2009
THE MAN THAT FOLLOWS HELL GERMANY MARKUS BOCK ADAM ONDRA 9a 2009

L’isola che non c’è

CH FRED NICOLE 0 2009
EMBORRACHANDO SPAIN DANI ANDRADA 0 2009
FUGU AUSTRIA ADAM ONDRA 0 2009
BEAT IT GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 „8c+/9a“ 2009
PACHAMAMA SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA SACHI AMMA  9a+ 2009
JAWS 11 GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 2009
RE-UP USA JOEY KINDER 0 2009
PANTERA GERMANY MARKUS BOCK ADAM ONDRA 9a 2009
EMPREINTES FRANCE FRED ROUHLING 0 2009
DEMENCIA SENIL SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA  2 9a+ 2009
DIRECTA OPEN YOUR MIND SPAIN  RÁMÓN JULIÁN DANI ANDRADA 9a+ 2008
GOLPE DE ESTADO SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA ADAM ONDRA 9b 2008
ARAGORN CH STEPHAN SCHIBLI 0 2008
CAMPO CON CORVI ITALY ADAM ONDRA 0 2008
ULTIME SOUFFRANCE CH DAVID HOHL 0 2008
THE DEVIL, YOU AND ME GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 2008
LIFE’S BLOOD FOR THE DOWNTRODDEN GERMANY MARKUS BOCK ADAM ONDRA 2008
JUMBO LOVE USA CHRIS SHARMA 0 2008
LOS INCONFORMISTAS SPAIN ERIC LOPEZ numerous 9a 2008
DELINCUENTE NATURAL SPAIN DANI ANDRADA 0 2008
ABSOLUTER KONTROLLVERLUST GERMANY

TONI LAMPRECHT

0 2008
HADES AUSTRIA A. BINDHAMMER 2 9a 2008
THE CHINA GLIDE USA PETER KAMITSES VASYA VOROTNIKOV 9a 2008
PAPICHULO
SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA numerous 9a+ 2008
NORTHERN EXPOSURE UK STEVE McCLURE 0 2008
GANCHO PERFECTO SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 2 9a 2008
GOLDEN DIRECT USA JOEY KINDER CHRIS SHARMA 9a 2008
THE ESSENTIAL GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 2 9a 2008
SALAMANDRE FRANCE FRED ROUHLING 0 2007
ALI-HULK var. SPAIN DANI ANDRADA 2 9b 2007
MATADOR GERMANY MARKUS BOCK FELIX KNAUB 9a 2007
JAWS2 USA VASYA VOROTNIKOV 2 9a+ 2007
SAN KU KAI FRANCE TONY LAMICHE 2 2007
PuntX FRANCE ALEXANDRE CHABOT 4 9a 2007
ALOHA FRANCE JULIUS WESTPHAL 0 2007
3 DEGREES OF SEPERATION FRANCE CHRIS SHARMA 0 2007
OVERSHADOW UK STEVE McCLURE ADAM ONDRA 9a+ 2007
LA NOVENA ENMIENDA SPAIN DANI ANDRADA 5 9a 2007
CORONA GERMANY MARKUS BOCK ADAM ONDRA 9a+ 2006
ES PONTAS SPAIN CHRIS SHARMA 0 2006
SS 26 ITALY ALBERTO GNERRO 2 8c+ 2006
MARSUPILAMI GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 2006
ABYSSE FRANCE ALEXANDRE CHABOT 5 9a 2006
DRUMTIME ITALY RICCARDO SCARIAN 0 2006
COUP DE GRACE CH DAVE GRAHAM GABRI MORONI 9a
2005
ERFOLG IST TRAINIERBAR AUSTRIA BERNI FIEDLER 2 9a
2005
BIG HAMMER AUSTRIA CHRISTIAN BINDHAMMER 0
2005
DREAMCATCHER CANADA CHRIS SHARMA SEAN McCOLL 9a
2005
A MUERTE SPAIN RICH SIMPSON
numerous
8c++ 2005
HEILIGER GRAHL GERMANY MARKUS BOCK
ADAM ONDRA
9a
2005
KARACHI JAPAN YUJI HIRAYAMA 0
2005
MONGO AUSTRIA MARKUS BENDLER 1
2004
PSIKOTERAPIA SPAIN PATXI USIBIAGA 2 9a
2004
VIOLENT NEW BREED UK JOHN GASKINS 0
2004
BIMBALUNA CH FRANÇOIS NICOLE JOSUNE BEREZIARTU (!) 9a
2004
ESCLATAMASTERS SPAIN RÁMÓN JULIÁN DAVE GRAHAM 9a 2004
ESTADO CRITICO SPAIN RÁMÓN JULIÁN numerous 8c+
2004
CHILAM BALAM SPAIN BERNABE FERNANDEZ (?) ADAM ONDRA 9b
2003
UNPLUGGED GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 2 8c+/9a
2003
FLATMOUNTAIN JAPAN YUJI HIRAYAMA 0
2003
IL DOMANI SPAIN PATXI USIBIAGA IKER POU 9a
2003
LOGICAL PROGRESSION JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA JOSUNE BEREZIARTU (!)
2003
INI AMERIKETAN SPAIN RIKAR OTEGUI 0
2003
LA CHIMÈRE DES HAUTEURS CH FRED NICOLE 0
2003
LA RAMBLA ext. SPAIN RÁMÓN JULIÁN 5 9a
2003
FLEX LUTHOR USA TOMMY CALDWELL 0
2003
PSYCHEDELIC USA DAVE GRAHAM PAUL ROBINSON 5.14c/d 2001
DIE WELLE GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 2001
MARTIN KRPAN SLOVENIA JURE GOLOB numerous 9a „soft“ 2001
REALIZATION FRANCE CHRIS SHARMA 5 9a/+
2001
ROBI IN THE SKY FRANCE FRANÇOIS LEGRAND ADAM ONDRA „hard 9a, chipped“
2000
IM REICH DES SHOGUN CH ERIC TALMADGE ADAM ONDRA
2000
NORTHERN LIGHTS UK STEVE McCLURE ADAM ONDRA 9a
2000
THE FLY USA DAVE GRAHAM many, 2 solo! V14
2000
VAKUUMGEIST AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT THOMAS KATZLBERGER 9a
1998
KRYPTONITE USA TOMMY CALDWELL NUMEROUS 9a 1998
MUTATION UK STEVE McCLURE 0
1998
INTERMEZZO AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 2 9a
1997
BIG BANG UK NEIL CARSON James McHaffie 9a
1997
OPEN AIR AUSTRIA ALEXANDER HUBER ADAM ONDRA 9a+
1996
AKIRA FRANCE FRED ROUHLING 0 Status dubious…
1995
WEISSE ROSE AUSTRIA ALEXANDER HUBER ADAM ONDRA 9a 1994
BAIN DE SANG CH FRED NICOLE 8 8c+/9a
1993
ACTION DIRECTE GERMANY WOLFGANG GÜLLICH 12 9a
1991

2. Boulder (bloc), rated either 8b+ and harder or being opened by a climber who doesn’t grade his/her problems, but thought this is hard…

NAME: LOCATION: FIRST CLIMBED BY: REPEATED? CONFIRMED? DATE:
AGGRAVATED ASSAULT USA

DANIEL WOODS

JIMMY WEBB 8b+ 2012
OFF THE WAGON CH

 

NALLE HUKKATALVAL

JAN HOJER 8B+/8C 2012
MOMENTUM CH

NALLE HUKKATALVAL

JAN HOJER 8B+/8C 2012
INSANITY OF GRANDEUR CH DAI KOYAMADA 0 2012
MINERVA JAPAN TOSHI TAKEUCHI 0 2012
NEVER SAY NEVER OZ DAVE GRAHAM 0 2012
KING OF LIMBS SA MICKY PAGE numerous 8b/+ 2012
NATURAL METHOD UK DAVE MCLEOD 0 2012
THE GREY USA DAVE GRAHAM DANIEL WOODS 8b+ 2012
MIXED EMOTIONS UK MIKE ADAMS 0 2012
DER MIT DEM FELS TANZT CH MARTIN KELLER DAI KOYAMADA 8c 2012
INSOMNIO SPAIN NACHO SÁNCHEZ 0 2012
CHARLOTTE SPAIN ALBERTO ROCASOLANO 0 2012
HELICOPTERS ON BEACHES SPAIN PAUL ROBINSON 0 2012
PAINT IT BLACK USA DANIEL WOODS 2  8c 2012

NEON DESERT

USA DAVE GRAHAM 0 2012
REALIST FRANCE NALLE HUKKATALVAL 0 2012
MIND TO MOTION USA DANIEL WOODS MATTY HONG 8b+ 2012
MEDOWLARK LEMON USA PAUL ROBINSON DAVE GRAHAM 8c 2012
MEMORY IS PARALLAX USA DAVE GRAHAM 0 2012

BLOOD OF A YOUNG WOLF

USA DAVE GRAHAM SAM DAVIS 8B+ 2012

FÜR IMMER SCHÖN

AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 0 2012

WHITE NOISE

USA DANIEL WOODS 2 8c 2012

L’ULTIMO DEI MOICANI

ITALY MICHELE CAMINATI 0 2012
MIRROR REALITY USA DANIEL WOODS 2 8b+ 2012
TOKOYO JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA TORU NAKAJIMA 8b+
SHANBARA JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA 0 2011
TERRANOVA CZ ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
THE ICE KNIFE USA DAVE GRAHAM 0 2011
BEWILDERNESS UK DAN VARIAN 0 2011
CHÁRON CZ ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
DANDELON MIND UK DAN VARIAN DAVID JONES 2011
LA FORCE TRANQUILLE CH DANIEL WOODS 0 2011
CIRCUS ELEPHANT SYNDROME FINLAND
NALLE HUKKATALVAL
0 2011
UNDERGROUND CZ ADAM ONDRA 0 2011
MYSTIC STYLEZ CH DANIEL WOODS numerous 8b+ 2011
OCCAM’S RAZOR AUSTRALIA
NALLE HUKKATALVAL
0 2011
CHERRY PICKIN‘ AUSTRALIA NALLE HUKKATALVAL DAVE GRAHAM 8b+ 2011
DARK MATTER CH DAI KOYAMADA ADAM ONDRA 8b+/8c 2011
PARANORMAL ACTIVITY SA PAUL ROBINSON 0 2011
PIGEON SUPERSTITION
AUSTRALIA
NALLE HUKKATALVAL
0 2011
A SIMPLE KNOWING SA PAUL ROBINSON 2  „not V15!“ 2011
WE CAN BUILD YOU USA JAMES WEBB BRION VOGES 8b+ 2011
LE BOA CH FRED NICOLE 0 2011
SEVEN OF NINE UK DAVE MCLEOD 0 2011
FIRE IN THE RAIN UK MIKE ADAMS NED FEEHALLY 8B/+ 2011
WÜSTENFUCHS AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 0 2011
GLOW IN THE DARK ESTRELLAS USA DAVE GRAHAM 0 2011
ENTROPIA SPAIN NANCHO SÁNCHEZ 0 2011
TUTTLGEIL AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 0 2011
HAMMERHART AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 0 2011
AGARTHA JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA TOSHI TEKEUCHI 8b+ 2011
CATHERSIS JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA FFA: TOMOKO OGAWA, 2012 8b+ 2011
FELSTIGER AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 0 2010
DAS SCHWERT AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 0 2010
DAEDALUS CH MARTIN KELLER DAI KOYAMADA 8b+ 2010
BELLA LUNA CH CHRIS WEBB PARSONS 0 2010
HYPNOTIZED MINDS USA DANIEL WOODS 0 2010
THE INSURGENCY USA JAMES LITZ 0 2010
BELIEVE IN TWO CH CHRIS WEBB PARSONS DANIEL WOODS 8b+ 2010
CROOK BY THE BOOK USA DANIEL WOODS DAVE GRAHAM 8b+ 2010
TOUGH TIMES CH CHRIS WEBB PARSONS 0 2010
ILL TRILL CH PAUL ROBINSON DANIEL WOODS 8b+ 2010
BLOOD REDEMPTION NORWAY MAGNUS MIDTBO ADAM ONDRA 8b+ 2010
WARRIOR UP USA DANIEL WOODS DAVE GRAHAM 8c 2010
LET THE RIGHT ONE IN USA DANIEL WOODS DAVE GRAHAM 8b+ 2010
BLEAGLE SA PAUL ROBINSON 0 2010
EXFOLIATOR USA DANIEL WOODS 4 8b/+ 2010
DEATH TROUT USA DANIEL WOODS 3 8b+ 2010
ONE OF A KIND OZ CHRIS WEBB PARSONS 0 2010
EVIL BACKWARDS USA
DANIEL WOODS
numerous 8b+ 2010
STIX sd CZ ADAM ONDRA 0 2010
THE HOURGLASS SWEDEN STEFAN RASMUSSEN 0 2010
LUCID DREAMING USA PAUL ROBINSON 0 2010
S trny v kùži hledám krásu rùží CZ PETR RESCH 0 2010
DESPERANZA USA DANIEL WOODS 2 8c 2010
THE GAME USA DANIEL WOODS CARLO TRAVERSI 8c 2010
NINJA SKILLS CH NALLE HUKKATALVAL PAUL ROBINSON 8b+ 2009
SANTA LINYA NEVER ENDING STORY SPAIN TOMAS MRAZEK 0 2009
DER WIND MEINER TRÄUME AUSTRIA
KLEM LOSKOT
0 2009
BAREVNY SVIT CZ
ADAM ONDRA
0 2009
AMERICAN GANGSTER AUSTRA DANIEL WOODS 0 2009
TOKY ITALY CHRISTIAN CORE 0 2009
LIVIN‘ LARGE SA NALLE HUKKATALVAL 0 2009
AIR STAR PROJECT SA KILIAN FISCHHUBER 0 2009
BIG WORM USA DAVE GRAHAM 4 8b/+ 2009
SERENDIPITY UK DAN VARIAN MIKE ADAMS 8B+ 2009
THE GLOBALIST FINLAND NALLE HUKKATALVAL ANTHONY GULLISTEN 8b+ 2009
KARAMU JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA 0 2009
RELEASE THE HOUNDS USA DANIEL WOODS 0 2009
KRYPTOS CH FRANZ WIDMER FRED NICOLE 8c 2009
THE BEACH USA DANIEL WOODS DAVE GRAHAM 8b+ 2009
BOKASSA’S FRIDGE – ASSASIN, MONKEY AND MAN GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 2009
MEER IST DOCH GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0 2009
EPITAF JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA 0 2009
THE TIPPING POINT USA JON CARDWELL 0 2009
BIG PAW CH DAVE GRAHAM numerous 8c 2008
QUOI DE NEUF FRANCE RÉMY BERGASSE 0 2008
BIG LONG NOWE  UK DAVE MCLEOD 0 2008
BLACK MAMBA ITALY DAI KOYAMADA 0 2008
SKY SA DANIEL WOODS 3 8b+ 2008
UNDERGROUND PARADISE CH ROMAIN DESGRANGES 3 8b+ 2008
GUT BUSTER UK MALCOLM SMITH 0
IN SEARCH OF TIME LOST CH DANIEL WOODS 2 8b+ 2008
METAMORPHOSIS CH DANIEL WOODS 0 2008
THE (BIG) ISLAND FRANCE DAVE GRAHAM „normal“ numerous,(BIG) 4 8c 2008
WOOD GRAIN GIPPIN‘ USA DAVE GRAHAM 2 8b+ 2008
GIOIA ITALY CHRIS CORE ADAM ONDRA 8c+ 2008
LOST IN THE HOOD USA DAVE GRAHAM 1 8b+ 2008
THE END SLOVENIA URH CEHOVIN 0 2007
MIDNIGHT EXPRESS USA TYLER LANDMAN 3 8b+ 2007
WARPATH USA JAMES LITZ 3 8b+ 2007
ANAM CARA AUSTRIA BERND ZANGERL 4 8b+/8c 2007
GECKO ASSIS FRANCE OLIVIER LEBRETON numerous 8b+ 2007
BONGO GERMANY DAI KOYAMADA F. CHRISTOPH „9a route“ 2007
JADE USA DANIEL WOODS 6 8b+ 2007
LE DERNIER FléAU FRANCE SHAWN DIAMOND 0 2007
THE SINGULARITY CANADA TIM CLIFFORD 0 2007
SUPERTANKER FRANCE ANTOINE VANDEPUTTE GUI-GUI 8b+ 2007
LIVING THE DREAM FINLAND NALLE HUKKATALVAL 0 2007
FROM SHALLOW WATERS 2 RIVERBED CH FRANZ WIDMER GABRIELE MORONI „8c+/9a route“ 2007
GANDALF IL GRIGIO ITALY CHRIS CORE numerous 8b+ 2007
BABEL JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA 0 2007
KHEOPS assis FRANCE ANTOINE VANDEPUTTE numerous 8b+ 2007
ANGAMA FRANCE DAI KOYAMADA PAUL ROBINSON 8b+/8c 2006
VOYAGER, sds GB BEN MOON 0 sds 8b+ 2006
ODE TO THE MODERN MAN USA DANIEL WOODS 6 8b+ 2006
SCARRED FOR LIFE CH DAVE GRAHAM 0 2006
PIPE DREAM AUSTRIA B. SCHWAIGER 0 2006
ASLAN USA DANIEL WOODS numerous 8b+ 2006
HYPER BALLAD JAPAN DAI KOYAMADA 0 2006
TERREMER USA FRED NICOLE 3 V15
2006
PI GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0
2005
LIBRE AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 2 8b+
2005
AMANDLA SA FRED NICOLE 4 8b+
2005
MEMENTO CH BERND ZANGERL 3 8b-8c
2005
RAY OF LIGHT SA KLEM LOSKOT numerous 8b
2005
SATAN Y HELVÈTE assis FRANCE SEBASTIAN FRIGAULT numerous 8b+
2005
KINGS OF SONIERTO CH DAVE GRAHAM BERND ZANGERL 2005
UMA JAPAN DAI KOMAYADA 0
2005
TRIFECTA MIDDLE NZ CHRIS SHARMA 0
2005
WITNESS THE FITNESS USA CHRIS SHARMA 4 8c
2005
FROM DIRT GROWS THE FLOWERS CH DAVE GRAHAM 5 8b+ / 8c
2005
ENTLINGE CH FRED NICOLE 4 8b+/8c
2005
MONTECORE GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 4
2005
THE STORY OF TWO WORLDS CH DAVE GRAHAM 3 8c/+
2005
CONFESSIONS CH DAVE GRAHAM 3, flashed by A.Ondra! 8b+ (?) 2005
THE SWARM USA MATT BIRCH numerous 8b+ 2005
COLLATERAL CH DAVE GRAHAM CHIPPED! Now 8a+…
2004
PRACTICE OF THE WILD CH CHRIS SHARMA numerous 8c
2004

ECHALE

USA DANIEL WOODS numerous V14
2004

FLAMIGNON

USA CHRIS SHARMA DANIEL WOODS 8b
2004
SHADOW PLAY UK JOHN GASKINS 0 8c/+
2004
BEGINNING OF THE END SLOVENIA URH CEHOVIN 0
2004
IT’S OVER UK SI O’CONNOR MIKE ADAMS Status dubious…
2004
TRACE ELEMENT UK SI O’CONNOR 0 Status dubious…
2004
PILGRIMAGE UK MALCOM SMITH 0
2004
GOLDEN SHADOW SA FRED NICOLE numerous 8b+ 2004
THE WHEEL OF LIFE AUSTRALIA DAI KOMAYADA numerous 9a/9a+ route, 8b+/8c+ boulder
2004
SLEEPY RAVE AUSTRALIA DAI KOMAYADA JAMES KASSAY
2004
V2A GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 0
2004
LE POINÇONNEUR DES LILAS CH FRED NICOLE FRANZ WIDMER 8c 2004
IL PIRATA UK JOHN GASKINS 0
2004
I TALK TO PLANETS GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 0
2004
TONINO ’78 ITALY MAURO CALIBANI JULIAN NADIRAS
2004
CANNIBAL CORPSE GERMANY PASCAL SCHOUWINK 2 8b+
2004
MARLA SINGER GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0
2004
ZUNAMI AUSTRIA BERNI SCHWAIGER 2 8c
2003
RIOT ACT GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 4 8B+
2003
FREAKS OF THE INDUSTRY USA JAMES LITZ 5 8b/8b+ 2003
PHAETON GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 2 8b/+
2003
THE MONK LIFE UK MALCOM SMITH 4 8b+
2003
HEART OF IT ALL UK JOHN GASKINS SAM DAVENHALL
2003
TRIP HOP FRANCE SEBASTIAN FRIGAULT PAUL ROBINSON
2003
UBIK assis FRANCE JULIEN NADIRAS numerous 8b+
2003
THE BOOK OF BITTER ASPECTS USA DAVE GRAHAM PHIL SHAAL 8b+
2003
SORGINETXE SPAIN IKER POU 0
2003
THE DAGGER CH TONI LAMPRECHT

numerous

8b+
2003
MOOISTE MAISE SA FRED NICOLE numerous 8b/8b+ 2003
MONKEY WEDDING SA FRED NICOLE 2 8c
2003
OLIPHANTS DAWN SA FRED NICOLE 2 8b+
2003
DIE UNENDLICHE GESCHICHTE /PART 1+2+3 CH CHRIS SHARMA numerous 8b+
2003
MADIBA SA FRED NICOLE numerous 8b / 8b+
2003
EMOTIONAL LANDSCAPES AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT 1
2002
NEW BASE LINE CH BERND ZANGERL Numerous 8b+
2002
VIVA LA EVOLUTION AUSTRIA BERND ZANGERL 0
2002
GOSSIP GERMANY MARKUS BOCK 2 8c
2002
SILENT HUNTER AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT THOMAS SCHIFER 8b
2002
LILI GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0
2002
WALK AWAY UK JOHN GASKINS 0
2002
CHAOS FRANCE JULIEN NADIRAS 2 8b/+
2002
BÜGELEISEN AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT M. BOCK? 8b+
2001
KAIZEN UK JOHN GASKINS

SAM DAVENHALL

8B+ 
2001
SECOND COMING UK STEVE DUNNING DAN VARIAN 8B+
2001
CIRCADIAN RHYTHM USA DAVE GRAHAM 5 8b
2001
ESPERANZA USA FRED NICOLE 7 8b+
2001
DUNE FRANCE SEBASTIAN FRIGAULT 0
2001
FEUERWALZE GERMANY HARRY RÖKER 2 8b+ 2000
EVE REVE AUSTRALIA FRED NICOLE 0
2000
BRAD PIT (SIT DOWN) UK THOMAS WILLENBERG MIKE ADAMS 8b
2000
NOTHING BUT SUNSHINE USA DAVE GRAHAM 2 8b/8b+
2000
DREAMTIME CH FRED NICOLE 7 CHIPPED! Now easier!
2000
ZERO G GERMANY KLEM LOSKOT THOMAS WILLENBERG CHIPPED! Now 7c… 1999
MUERTE GERMANY TONI LAMPRECHT 0
1999
WRESTLING WITH AN ALLIGATOR AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT numerous 8b
1999
AMMAGAMMA AUSTRALIA KLEM LOSKOT 3 8b
1999
FATMAN FRANCE FRED NICOLE 2
1999
THE POWER OF GOODBYE AUSTRIA KLEM LOSKOT numerous back in the list since it’s „harder than 8b“ 1999
CROWBAR GERMANY MARKUS BOCK HIROTARO HOSHINA 8b+ 1998
LE COEUR DE LEON USA FRED NICOLE 3 8B+
1998
SLASHFACE USA FRED NICOLE numerous 8b/+
1998
NANUK GERMANY KLEM LOSKOT MARTIN SCHIDLOWSKI 8b+
1997
ZERBERUS GERMANY WERNER THON numerous 8b/+
1997
RADJA CH FRED NICOLE numerous 8b+ 1996

 

WHY A LIST OF THE THE HARDEST CLIMBING MOVES?

The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer…

A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: „It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound…“

So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you’re only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that’s fine, it’s just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it… etc. etc.

This is what we like to see in this list. A way to share information about difficult climbing moves!

Two more things: ALL the strong climbers eventually misrated climbing moves in their times. In ten years we’ll know more…�

 

„Do we comprehend as a community a system of grading? As a community, are we confident in our current theories about the complex abstraction of high-end grades?

I think the media did a lot more consolidating of grades than we ever did as a community of climbers. For generations it has happened. Capitalism, money, „fame“,…these factors of our world are real, and they have a serious influence.

Grades will never be the most inspiring abstraction donated by climbing. They rank low in overall importance. From an artistic point of view, the possible inspiration one can attain from a grade (it being an after-the-fact interpretation of something special) can never compete with the inspiration donated by the actual experience of climbing.

I changed a lot of my ideas about grades throughout my experiences climbing. I learned a lot about how to compare personal experiences and deduce their relativity. I think its amazing, as a community, how everyone involved, can appreciate the attempt to articulate (with a little number) how challenging something felt, or how one experience compared to another.“

— Dave Graham, 2004 —

Please comment if you think something is wrong (You need to be registered to comment). Here is a (french) list of climbers who have done 9a (and harder)…

2008 climbing and bouldering news:

Early in 2008 Dave Graham bouldered Wood Grain Gippin‘ in Arkansas and The Island in Bleau, Chris Core did Gioia and Toni Lamprecht his master piece Assasin, Monkey and Man. Than, end of April till mid May, Chris Sharma put up one more „perfect line of power endurance“ in Margalef, Spain called Victima perfecta and Markus Bock finally climbed the old project of Klaus Büchele, left of Kaum Zeit zum Atmen and called it The Essential. Daniel Woods established two new hard boulder problems with Metamorphosis, 8b+ and In Search of Time Lost, 8c in the Magic Wood, Switzerland.

Markus Bock opened Life’s Blood For The Downtrodden, a 30 moves line in the Frankenjura. Chris Sharma finally climbed the gigantic straight line out the middle of the steepest part of the cave at the top of Clark Mountain, calling it Jumbo Love, 9b. He’s spent a few months working it on and off over the last year and a half. After spending most of the last year living in Spain and sportclimbing non-stop, Chris returned to the States this summer fitter than ever and with full focus on his project.

Noteworthy, Adam Ondra repeats Alexander Huber’s Weisse Rose and Open Air, 9a(+) at Schleierwasserfall.

Dave Graham made the FA of The bitter End, at Fionay, a 13m roof „almost a route“ on nice rock that  he describes as a resistance, „never really a hard move“ and very beautiful problem.

Talking of routes, there are 5 new „hard“ 9a’s:

The latest is Absoluter Kontrollverlust by Toni Lamprecht in Kochel. Before the Bindhammer brothers added Hades to the “Götterwand” (Wall of Gods) a Nassereith (Tyrol/A).

Peter Kamitses The China Glide, 9a in Rumney. „links all of chinabeach into hard boulder problem into last crux of livin astro.“ Last month Chris Sharma did the FA of Papichulo, 9a+ in Oliana, Spain and Steve McClure climbs Northern Exposure in Kilnsey!

Old, „so 2007“ climbing and bouldering news:

The last news, just around the turn of the years 07/08 was Paul Robinson’s second ascent of Fred Nicole’s Terremer (V15), the hardest boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, Texas!

Last update mid-December ’07 adding Fred Rouhling’s all natural limestone line Salamandre at Saint-Pierre en Faucigny, France and Urh Čehovin’s boulder problem The End in Slovenia to the list.

Most likely the hardest new line this year, but unfortunately not the most inspiring is Dani Andrada’s linkup in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar, the sit-start of the Ali Hulk extension. That’s unfortunate in so far as Dani is one of the very few climbers that have done a lot of those High-end climbs and we would hope that he puts up more one-of-a-kind climbs that don’t inspire nit-picking as much as a linkup does! Well, on the other hand of course Dani can climb whatever he pleases…

Talking of Dani, his route La Novena Enmienda, 9a+has been repeated by Chris Sharma and Patxi Usobiaga. Paxi has had one of the most impressive week in sport climbing history ever by climbing two 9a+ routes, a 8c++, and three 8b or harder onsights within one week!

In November two boulder problems were added to the list: Tyler Landman’s Boulder canyon problem Midnight Express and James Litz‘ boulder problem Warpath in Idaho.

During October ’07 we added: Markus Bock’s route  Matador in the Frankenjura, Vasya Vorotnikov’s re-redpoint of Jaws in Rumney and 2 boulder problems: Bernd Zangerl’s Anam Cara close to his home in Austria and Dai Koyamada’s  Bongo in the Frankenjura again.

2007 has been an amazing year already with Jaws Daniel Woods‘ boulder problem Jade, Tony Lamiche’s San Ku Kaï, Alex Chabot’s PuntX, Chris Sharmas‘ Three degrees of seperation, Julius Westphal’s Aloha and many more. More about the state of the climbing (in German) here.

As more and more young climbers are capable of climbing in the 9a and bouldering in the 8b+ range, we’ll get more perspective on climbing grades.