Besser Klettern FAQs

In better climbing by Udo Neumann


Ich muss mich mal endschuldigen, da meine Deutsch ganz selcht ist. Ich wllte gerne beitragen an der Forum, aber leider im English. Ich hoffe das jeder das begreifen kann.

I have been climbing for about 14 years, and finally achieved to climb my first 7C boulder. Lately I have been looking at the weaknesses in my climbing (there are many). And there are always the obvious things you want to (or think you have to) train;

# More arm strength
# Stronger fingers

Sometimes these are real weaknesses, but many times its technique flaws. Training arm, finger and core strength is relativity easy, compared to training additional technique. You pick some exercises that are closely relate to climbing and perform you sets, with commitment.

Yesterday I was watching the interview with Dave Graham, (very motivating). At some point the question is asked, what is the difference between you and a 7C climber. Dave gives a awesome answer, which I think might be spot on (watch the movie on this site). I can imagine that the only way to learn how to work out the best way to hold a hold or to shift your body and such, is to try, try, and keep asking why. (or does anybody have some other suggestions or tips?)

I think technique training is very important, although, I never trained it individually. Often when I fall from a move, I ask myself what happened. Often I decide its lack of strength, but in my heart I know its lack of technique.

But what is the best way to learn new techniques (or advance techniques), and make sure you can perform them solidly in bouldering outdoors. And how do you pin-point flaws in you technique. Cause I have no idea where to begin.

I hope some one can help me, or point me in the right direction.

Ich hoffe das meine Frage, deutlich ist.
Danke und gre


I 100% agree with you. I’m quite weak, so I spent a lot of time figuring out the easiest way to solve a problem. Even if I eventually did it, I try to come up with different solutions and see if it’s easier that way. I think that helps me a lot to understand how things work. But still I know very little about this stuff :\ Everytime I think „oh ok I have understand this or that“, and then a little later I discover new things. There is sooo much to learn.
Dave has an incredible technique I think, but he says he is still „at the beginning of his wizardry“.. that tells a lot

The interview is great btw, I would love to hear more from him!

– Besides just finding different solutions for a problem, climbing/bouldering with eyes closed I have found quite interesting, you should try that! Gives you a good feeling for body positions.
– Watching better climbers on stuff you also try is also a good help.
– Film yourself climbing once in a while, and look for your faults, if possible with someone else experienced.
– Tell the people you are climbing with to tell you about your faults. Most people don’t do it normally because they think it might piss you off.
– Go bouldering alone sometimes. Gives you a lot of time to do stupid stuff without any peer pressure